The changes in the lingerie market are not to everyone’s liking. Confronted with an ever-growing number of start-ups and e-commerce of relatively small companies, big established brands see their market position weakening. Purpose driven newcomers focus on diversity and inclusion, and communicate and often sell directly to the consumers. Innovation of sizing systems and sustainable material use is also driven by newcomers.
“The intimates industry has a very exciting future with new generations appreciating knowledge, authenticity and clear information about sustainability. In bra design, above all of it, will be a question of the better product with an extended lifecycle and diverse individual ‘comfort’ values …”
The recent Interfilière Shanghai fair showed the first signs that the global Bodyfashion trade is coming to its senses. No longer a place of hectic trade in low prices and big volumes, but a search for novelty that suits the changing world. Our Forum prototype fashion show was a sum-up of how wearable lasting comfort is the biggest focus for 2020, seen as the tipping point year for dramatic change. Most of the innovation is ‘more than the eye can see’.
An equilibrium between ECO consciousness and visual attraction is what everybody is looking for. The rationale of a no-nonsense eco comfort wardrobe strategy does not correspond with another sustainable urgency: that of protecting the craftsmanship and the creative heritage of the fashion industry.
The nature-centric mentality now fills every modern mind in fashion and beyond. Première Vision and Interfilière were completely focussed on it. Federica Tersch from Iluna stated that sustainability is now the first demand for laces with specific requests for certifications.
Some complain that there are not enough new shape developments in lingerie! REALLY? We think this is a very interesting time in the history of bodyfashion, lingerie, sport and beachwear included. The woman and her priorities are the biggest trend to hook onto.
Never before did we receive so many enthusiastic reactions than after last week’s Paris lingerie fair weekend. Okay – the garment section was, for many, too beachy. But Interfilière was a treasure trove of ideas, and all relevant to the current developments of the consumer market.
The major fashion trend discussion is about how to update authentic shapes. Colour is a major contributor, plus a growing focus on trims and fabrics. This is determining in the better end of the market. Sadly, there is still a constant development of ‘fast fashion’ with fierce price competition. This starts to become painful for the lace industry where prices have dropped to an all time low.
The first of our Première Vision reports, is a very perfect illustration of our Summer 2020 Design Concepts. The hunger for authenticity is overwhelming and judging by the first catwalk shows it does not stop with fabrics. The novelty of the season ahead is not just pattern and colour, it is also in technical innovation that often goes hand-in-hand with a growing awareness of sustainable issues – from the actual fibre to the bio-economy.
Diversification and inclusion have taken hold of the lingerie market. For the first time in years the offer and focus is shifting away from predominantly no-frill comfort, sport and wireless triangles into beautiful, designed garments and better range building. Best example of this turnaround is the Chantelle Group launching Soft Stretch, a very well received minimalist, second-skin range at the same time as completely reviewing the look of their other brands.