Technical solutions dominated recent Première Vision and were confirmed by the first wave of designer catwalks. And although luxury branding is trying to walk in the footsteps of Gucci, with a wave of extravert design crossovers, more consistent developments are taking place on the crossroads between sport, casual streetwear and warrior glamour.
There is nothing comparable than having a meal at Potafiori in Milan; eating in a real functioning flower shop with a menu composed out of tastes and smells of the kitchen garden. But there is nothing hippy or alternative about it, this is the height of taste and sophistication, with the serving staff dressed in Liberty print aprons and the owner singing nostalgic jazz at the end of the evening. This is one of the many examples that thrive despite the lack of a formulaic marketing concept.
A fantastic evolution of lingerie comes from RTW designers with their growing enthusiasm for bodyfashion items as part of the fashion wardrobe.
The rush on creative textile sources, mainly Italian & Japanese, was the driving force on the recent Premiere Vision fabric fair in France followed by the designer shows. Nothing is straightforward, everything is reinvented or reworked. Lots of traditional techniques such as jacquards, lace, hand knits and pile fabrics are cleverly bonded, laser cut or laminated.
The ‘making’ society with its growing admiration for beautifully made objects ‘touched by human hands’ has reached the top of the fashion market. The willingness to pay for skill, knowledge and originality was already strong in culinary circles where young top chefs re-invent the taste for ‘real’ beautifully prepared food.
This year’s class of graduates was of a particularly high calibre, sophisticated creativity and awareness of the importance of the commercial industry. A strong trend towards ‘hand-crafted’ and a response and rejection of our fast-fashion culture was apparent with an abundance of hand embroidery, crochet, and knitting. All with the feeling they were made with a touch of humour and a lot of love.
British Fashion Graduates at their yearly showpiece in London showed a surprising sense of reality. Newness concentrated on skills with intricate finishes, precise details and measured shapes. This year’s prize winner Grace Weller from Bath Spa University impressed with beautiful 3D embroideries scattered on modern evening wear. Modernism also focused on new elements for the contemporary building-block wardrobe.
A focus on the season’s dominating colours in our first report of the AW 14-15 catwalks. Colour is the biggest driver of change for the Bodyfashion industry. Focus also on energising colours and their importance for Bodyfashion.